Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water

Song Jin-bao; Lou Shun-li; Tian Ji-wei

doi:10.1007/BF02850881

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Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water

OriginalPaper | Updated：2023-05-16

- Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water
- Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water
- 海洋湖沼学报（英文） 1997年15卷第3期页码：252-257
- Affiliations：
  
  Physical Oceanography Laboratory
- Author bio：
- Funds：
  
  The work was supported by the National Education Committee Foundation.
- DOI：10.1007/BF02850881
  中图分类号：
- 网络首发：2013-01-31，
  
  纸质出版：1997
- Accepted：
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Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water[J]. 海洋湖沼学报（英文）, 1997,15(3):252-257.

Jin-bao, S., Shun-li, L. & Ji-wei, T. Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 15, 252–257 (1997). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02850881
Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water[J]. 海洋湖沼学报（英文）, 1997,15(3):252-257. DOI： 10.1007/BF02850881.

Jin-bao, S., Shun-li, L. & Ji-wei, T. Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 15, 252–257 (1997). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02850881 DOI：

摘要

Abstract

This practical method for calculating the probability of a wave breaking and the distribution of breaking wave heights is based on the joint probability distribution of wave heights and periods derived by Sun Fu and the breaking criterion obtained by Ochi and Tsai from measurements of irregular waves generated in a tank. Computations for different sea states using the P-M spectrum and the JONSWAP spectrum showed that the probability of wave breaking (or the distribution of breaking wave heights) in the deep ocean can be determined

at least approximated

from the zero

the first and the second moments of the wave spectrum.

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references

Holthuijsen, L. H., Herbers, T. H. C., 1986. Statistics of breaking waves observed as whitecaps in the open sea.J. Phys. Oceanogr. 16: 290–297.

Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1975. Integral properties of periodic waves of finite amplitude.Proc. Roy. Soc. London. A 364: 1–28.

Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1983. On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field.Proc. Roy. Soc. London. A389: 241–258.

Nath, J. H., Ramsey, F. L., 1976. Probability distributions of breaking wave heights emphasizing the utilization of the JONSWAP spectrum.J. Phys. Oceanogr. 6: 316–323.

Ochi, M. K., Tsai, C. H., 1983. Prediction of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water.J. Phys. Oceanogr. 13: 2008–2019.

Phillips, O. M., 1985. Spectral and statistical properties of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves.J. Fluid Mech. 156: 505–531.

Snyder, R. L., Kennedy, R. M., 1983. On the formation of whitecaps by a threshold mechanism. Part I: Basic formalism.J. Phys. Oceanogr. 13: 1482–1492.

Srokosz, M. A., 1986. On the probability of wave breaking in deep water.J. Phys. Oceanogr. 16: 382–385.

Sun Fu, 1987. On the joint distribution of the periods and heights of sea waves.Acta Oceanologica Sinica. 6 (4): 503–509.

Van Dorn, W. G., Pazan, S. E., 1975. Laboratory investigation of wave breaking, Part II: Deep water waves Scripps Institution of Oceanography, SIO RTF No. 75-21, AOEL, Rep. 71.

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