Effect of wave spectrum width on the probability density distribution of wind-wave heights

Yahao Liu; Yijun Hou; Po Hu; Ze Liu

doi:10.1007/s00343-015-4126-6

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Effect of wave spectrum width on the probability density distribution of wind-wave heights

Updated：2023-05-16

- Effect of wave spectrum width on the probability density distribution of wind-wave heights
- Journal of Oceanology and Limnology Vol. 33, Issue 5, Pages: 1124-1131(2015)
- Affiliations：
  
  1. Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves (KLOCAW) Chinese Academy of Sciences
  2. Institute of Oceanology Chinese Academy of Sciences
- Author bio：
- Funds：
- DOI：10.1007/s00343-015-4126-6
  CLC：
- Online First：10 December 2014，
  
  Published：2015
- Accepted：
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Liu, Y., Hou, Y., Hu, P. et al. Effect of wave spectrum width on the probability density distribution of wind-wave heights., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 33, 1124–1131 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00343-015-4126-6
DOI：

Liu, Y., Hou, Y., Hu, P. et al. Effect of wave spectrum width on the probability density distribution of wind-wave heights., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 33, 1124–1131 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00343-015-4126-6 DOI：

摘要

Abstract

The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights

derived from this distribution

are widely used for the treatment of realistic wind waves. However

the bandwidth of wave frequency influences the probability distribution of wave heights. In this paper

a wave-spectrum-width parameter B was introduced into the JONSWAP spectrum. This facilitated the construction of a wind-wave spectrum and the reconstruction of wind-wave time series for various growth stages

based on which the probability density distributions of the wind-wave heights were studied statistically. The distribution curves deviated slightly from the theoretical Rayleigh distribution with increasing B. The probability that a wave height exceeded a certain value was clearly smaller than the theoretical value for B≥0.3

and the difference between them increased with the threshold value. The relation between the H s/σ ratio and B was investigated statistically

which revealed that the H s/σ ratio deviated from 4.005 and declined with B. When B reached 0.698 1

the H s/σ ratio was 3.825

which is about 95.5% of its original value. This indicates an overestimation in the prediction of H s from H s=4.005σ

and provides a potential method for improving the accuracy of the H s remote sensing retrieval algorithm

critical for extremely large waves under severe sea states.

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Keywords

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