Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water

Song Jin-bao; Lou Shun-li; Tian Ji-wei

doi:10.1007/BF02850881

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Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water

Updated：2023-05-16

- Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water
- Journal of Oceanology and Limnology Vol. 15, Issue 3, Pages: 252-257(1997)
- Affiliations：
  
  Physical Oceanography Laboratory
- Author bio：
- Funds：
- DOI：10.1007/BF02850881
  CLC：
- Online First：31 January 2013，
  
  Published：1997
- Accepted：
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Jin-bao, S., Shun-li, L. & Ji-wei, T. Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 15, 252–257 (1997). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02850881
DOI：

Jin-bao, S., Shun-li, L. & Ji-wei, T. Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 15, 252–257 (1997). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02850881 DOI：

摘要

Abstract

This practical method for calculating the probability of a wave breaking and the distribution of breaking wave heights is based on the joint probability distribution of wave heights and periods derived by Sun Fu and the breaking criterion obtained by Ochi and Tsai from measurements of irregular waves generated in a tank. Computations for different sea states using the P-M spectrum and the JONSWAP spectrum showed that the probability of wave breaking (or the distribution of breaking wave heights) in the deep ocean can be determined

at least approximated

from the zero

the first and the second moments of the wave spectrum.

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references

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Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1983. On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field.Proc. Roy. Soc. London. A389: 241–258.

Nath, J. H., Ramsey, F. L., 1976. Probability distributions of breaking wave heights emphasizing the utilization of the JONSWAP spectrum.J. Phys. Oceanogr. 6: 316–323.

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Van Dorn, W. G., Pazan, S. E., 1975. Laboratory investigation of wave breaking, Part II: Deep water waves Scripps Institution of Oceanography, SIO RTF No. 75-21, AOEL, Rep. 71.

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