On Long-waves breaking II. in a half infinite channel with bottom slope

Tian Ji-wei; Lou Shun-li; Hu Dun-xin; Li Hong-yan

doi:10.1007/BF02850521

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On Long-waves breaking II. in a half infinite channel with bottom slope

Updated：2023-05-16

- On Long-waves breaking II. in a half infinite channel with bottom slope
- Journal of Oceanology and Limnology Vol. 13, Issue 3, Pages: 215-222(1995)
- Affiliations：
  
  Institute of Oceanology
- Author bio：
- Funds：
- DOI：10.1007/BF02850521
  CLC：
- Published：1995
- Accepted：
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Ji-wei, T., Shun-li, L., Dun-xin, H. et al. On Long-waves breaking II. in a half infinite channel with bottom slope., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 13, 215–222 (1995). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02850521
DOI：

Ji-wei, T., Shun-li, L., Dun-xin, H. et al. On Long-waves breaking II. in a half infinite channel with bottom slope., Chin. J. Ocean. Limnol. 13, 215–222 (1995). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02850521 DOI：

摘要

Abstract

The propagation of long-waves

such as tidal waves from the coastal ocean into shallow estuarine waters

often produces asymmetries of velocity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking. Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth

consideringnth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottom slope

taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location are estimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtained can also be easily applied to the case considering wind stress.

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references

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Hansen, W., 1956. Theorie Zur Errechnung des Wasserstandes und der Stromungen in Randmeeren nebst Anwendungen.Tellus 8: 287–300. (In German)

Kreiss, H., 1957. Some remarks about nonlinear oscillations in tidal channels.Tellus 9: 53–68.

Longuet Higgins, M. S., 1982. Parametric solution for breaking waves.J. Fluid Mech. 121: 403–424.

Mazumder, N. C., Chateorjee, P. K. and Basak, S. K., 1984. Generation of a bore.J. Water. Port. Coast. Ocean Engineer. 110: 159–170.

Prandle, D., 1985. Classification of tidal response in estuaries from channel geometry.Geophys. J. R. Astr. Soc. 80: 209–221.

Tian Jiwei, Li Hongyan, Hu Dunxin and Zhang Fagao, 1994. The study of long-wave breaking.Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology.12(2): 136–143.

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